Indian women have always been encouraged
to make the most of their looks with cosmetics and herbs. Even in the vedic
times, Sanskrit texts laid down the concept of
Sola
singaar or the
sixteen traditional
accoutrements with which every women could adorn herself. These
were designed for every part of body, and irrespective of class, many of
them can be fashioned out of wood, glass, fresh flowers or precious jewels.
Indian women follow the concept of
Sola singaar even today. While it is possible to use some of these
decorations every day, modern life and work make others, such as armlets on
the

upper
arm or toe rings, impractical for daily use. Many Indian women, however,
even the more westernized ones, dress up in all the sixteen accoutrements
for weddings, festivals and other special occasions.
The
sixteen accoutrements are: bindi, necklaces, earrings, flowers in the hair,
bangles, rings, armlets on the upper arm, waistbands, anklets for the feet,
kohl, toe rings, henna, perfume, sandalwood paste, the upper garment and the
lower garment.
Bindi :The bindi (also known
as body dot, body jewel and tikka) has been given different meanings at
different times. It has been and is still, seen as a sign of marriage. It
has also been associated with fertility, and the red powder used to paint
the dot was formerly made of a combination of mercury (considered by early
Hindu alchemists to be the seed of the god Shiva, and therefore the male
element), and sulphur (the female element).
Necklaces : The beautiful
maidens in Indian romantic literature, are often depicted with garlands of
fresh and fragrant flowers encircling their swan-like necks. Today garlands
are used as necklaces for temple deities and are also presented to special
guests or newly-wed couples. Necklaces for daily wear are made of anything
from gold to wood or glass.
Earrings : In India the ears
of little Hindu baby girls are ritually pierced with great ceremony on the
thirteenth day after their birth. A jeweller is invited to the house and the
baby's uncle (her mother's brother) holds the infant as the ears are pierced
with fine gold wire that is twisted and tied into neat little loops. The
family then honors the jeweller with gifts and money for decorating the
daughter of the house with gold.
Rings : Long, slender
fingers are enhanced with gold and silver rings and many Indian brides wear
an ornament made of five rings, one for each finger, with little chains
running from each ring to a clasped bracelet at the wrist, Hindus, Muslims
and Sikhs do not traditionally wear wedding rings, although it has become
fashionable since the 1980s or so to exchange engagement rings.
Armlets : These are wore on
the upper arm and the designs vary from region to region. One of the most
popular is the snake, known for its divine powers toward off evil and to
protect stores of wealth.
Waistbands : A variety of
thin belts and waistbands of gold or silver with tiny bells or motifs of
gods and goddesses, are used to enhance and draw attention to the delicacy
of womanly curves. They are usually worn with a sari which leaves the
midriff bare. Broader waistbands with motifs of gods and goddesses are wore
with a ghagra of full skirt.
Anklets : Traditionally the
woman of the house announces her arrival with the tinkling sound of anklets.
These are always made of silver. Indians believe gold to be the metal of the
gods and therefore sacred. To wear it on the feet, the lowest part of the
body, is considered to be an ill-omen and disrespectful.
Kohl : Black kohl (also
known as
Kajal) is often made at home by burning a clean cotton wick
in castor oil and collecting the residue of the fumes. The inner rim of the
lids is then blackened with this.
Toe Rings : Indian women
often decorate each toe with a different silver ring with motifs of fish,
birds or flowers. In south India toe rings are a symbol of marriage and
women wear a heavy ring on the second toe of each foot.
Henna : The great Ayurveda
practitioner Charak believed that all herbs were fathered by heaven and
mothered by earth, with roots in the primeval cosmic ocean. Henna is perhaps
the strongest natural colourant known to us. The dried powder of the leaves
is mixed with

water
and the resulting paste applied to the hands, feet and hair to give a rich
mahogany color. Henna is traditionally associated with weddings and
festivals, so every Indian bride will have a mehendiwali or henna painting
artist draw filigreed patterns on her palms and feet a day before her
wedding. It is believed that the darker color it leaves on the palm, more
love and affection she will get from her husband.
Perfume : Rose, Jasmine,
sandalwood, lemon are all fragrances that are captured into attar or
indigenously made perfume. Attar is available at many Indian shops in the
west, although the essential oils of various fruits and flowers are more
easily found at natural beauty and aroma therapy stores. Attar has to be
used sparingly of it can become overwhelming.
Sandalwood Paste : Indian
women mix together a pinch of pure sandalwood powder (made from the wood of
the sandalwood tree), a pinch of turmeric (which is antiseptic), and water
and apply this to their face and neck for a clear skin. Ayurveda has always
recognized cooling and polishing properties of sandalwood.
The Upper Garment : About
five hundred years ago the lower garment was a cloth held up at the waist
with a string or belt. Today it is synonymous with the sari, which is worn
in innumerable ways. The most popular is the five-yard sari, an unstitched
length of cloth, one end of which is pleated in front and the other end
thrown over the left shoulder. Saris are made of silk, cotton or synthetic
fabrics and the best ones are woven by hand at various weaving centres all
over India.
On this special day of her life, Indian bride becomes the beautiful goddess
Lakshmi, who will bring good luck and plenty to her new home and fill it
with happiness and harmony.